[?] Jaisalmer: The Golden City of Rajasthan.
Overview
Jaisalmer is a desert-city located in western Rajasthan, and it is located on the boundary of the Thar Desert. It is one of the most magical places in India, called the Golden City because of sandstone architecture of honey-yellow color, the forts, havelis, and sand dunes form the ancient Indian landscape.
Best Time to Visit
Best time is between October and March – sunny days (15-25degC) and cold nights. Traditional Do not use April-June because of high temperatures of over 45degC. Desert Festival (in February, most of the time) is the best occasion to enjoy the Rajasthani folk culture and camel races, turban-tying contests.
How to Reach
Train: Jaisalmer Railway Station is well linked to either Delhi (12-18 hrs), Jaipur (6-7 hrs), and Jodhpur (5-6 hrs). The most popular one is the overnight train between Delhi (Delhi Sarai Rohilla – Jaisalmer Express).
By Bus: State and private buses at regular intervals in Jodhpur (~5 hrs), Bikaner (~5 hrs) and Jaipur (~10 hrs).
Air: The closest large airport is Jodhpur (JDH) and is located approximately 285 km. Jaisalmer has a regional airport having a few Delhi flights.
Top Places to Visit
Jaisalmer Fort (Sonar Quila)
It is one of the few existing forts in the world, people live, shop and have restaurants in it. It was constructed in 1156 AD by Rawal Jaisal on top of the city being 76 metres high. Entry fee is nominal. Sights to visit: Raj Mahal (Royal Palace), Jain temples within it, and gorgeous rampart views.
Patwon Ki Haveli
The biggest and the most decorated haveli in Jaisalmer and with five mansions which are interconnected and constructed in 1800s. The detailed stone carvings are a mouth opener.
Sam Sand Dunes
Sam is the most popular dune stretch that is located 42km from the city. Reserve a camel safari during the sunset, it is simply indispensable. Most camps are including accommodation through bonfire, folk music and dancing.
Khuri Sand Dunes
A less commercialized substitute of Sam. Better to stare at the stars and have a more traditional desert experience.
Gadsisar Lake
An artificial lake on the edge of the city, which is beautiful during sunrise. And temples and cenotaphs about. Boating available.
Bada Bagh
A complex of royal cenotaphs (chhatris) of Bhati rulers – gorgeous when combined with desert sky, at golden hour.
Desert National Park
The Great Indian Bustard, chinkaras and desert foxes are found there. Jeep safaris available. A necessity of the nature and wildlife enthusiasts.
Where to Stay
Budget Options
Budget ([?]500-1500) Zostel Jaisalmer, Hotel Shahi Palace.
Mid-range ([?]2000-5000) Hotel Nachana Haveli, Hotel Fifu.
Luxury ([?]6000+) Suryagarh Palace, The Serai (desert camp).
Remaining within the fort is also a possibility but is controversial – tourists are a burden on the buildings. It is a good compromise to remain outside.
Food to Try
Dal Baati Churma – the traditional Rajasthani food, which cannot be missed.
Ker Sangri – local desert beans curried into a spicy sabzi.
Interior spots are Mukt Sagar and Trio Restaurant within the fort.
Street kachori and chaat at Amar Sagar Pol gate.
Lassi and rabdi for dessert
Typical 3-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive – Jaisalmer Fort – Patwon Ki Haveli – Gadsisar Lake at sun set.
Day 2: Sam Sand dunes – Camel safari – Over night desert camp and folk performance.
Day 3: Bada Bagh – Desert National Park jeep safari – Local market shopping – Depart.
Shopping
Jaisalmer is also known as the mirror-work textile, camel leather, silver jewellery, woollen shawls and hand-block-printed fabric. Lanes in the fort gate and Sadar Bazaar are the major shopping areas. Always negotiate – the prices may begin at 2-3 times.
Tips
Bring sunscreen, sunglasses and scarf/dupatta – in winter desert sun is very harsh.
Reservations of book deserts at the earliest time possible (Nov-Feb)
This is accompanied by the added enormous amount of historical context to paying a local guide to go to the fort ([?]200-400).
The city is not expensive regarding Rickshaws and autos, rent a bike/scooter to be able to move around.
ATM machines are not always reliable – bring enough money.
Jaisalmer is such a place that it truly feels like one is moving to a different time. The impression left by even 2-3 days in this place is imprinted.
Jaisalmer Specialties.
Jaisalmer is not like other cities in India. The whole city is made out of sandstone of a golden-yellow hue, and thus, in the setting sunlight, and in the dawn, the city looks amber. It lies at the centre of Thar Desert, only 100km away at the Pakistan border. It is a paradise of photographers with 900 years old living forts, royal havelis and endless dunes; a history lover can only dream of.
Getting There
Mode From Time Cost (approx)
Train Delhi 12-16 hrs [?]400-1800
Train Jaipur 6-7 hrs [?]300-1200
Train Jodhpur 5 hrs [?]150-700
Bus Jodhpur 5-6 hrs [?]200-600
Flight Delhi-Jodhpur 1.5 hrs + 4hr drive [?]3000 +.
Delhi: The Jaisalmer Express, the overnight is cheap, comfortable and you will be fresh in the morning.
Best Time to Visit
Oct-Nov: end of the monsoon, patches of green in desert, pleasant days.
Dec-Jan: high season, cold at night, dunes and fort are good.
Feb: Desert festival- folk music, camel racing, turban competition.
Mar-Apr: It is warming up but not too hot yet.
May-Sep: it is unusually hot (45deg C and above) or damp- avoid.
Must-See Attractions
Jaisalmer Fort (Sonar Quila)
One of the largest living forts in the globe and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was constructed in 1156 AD and almost 4,000 individuals reside within. Visit the Royal Palace, seven Jain temples carved out of marble and stroll the old ramparts. Go early in the morning when people are not there. Entry ~[?]50 for Indians.
[?] Patwon Ki Haveli
A rich merchant family constructed five linked mansions in the 19 th century. The masonry is so elaborated it appears as lace cut in stone. Open 9am-5pm, entry ~[?]100.
Sam Sand Dunes (42 km from city)
The Jaisalmer experience. By 4pm be there during the golden hour, ride a camel, watching the sun slip down the dunes. The majority of the tourists spend the night in a desert camp here bonfires, Rajasthani folk dancers and an unbelievable star-filled sky.
Khuri Village (48 km)
Quieter than Sam. More real, less tourists. Mud-huts are operated by local families. Fit as a treat to be alone, watch the stars and enjoy real village hospitality. Good when you do not want to be in crowded tourist destinations.
[?] Bada Bagh
Burial piles of kings of Jaisalmer, against the sky of the open desert. Most beautiful at golden hour (5-6pm). Free entry, car/taxi ride in city.
Gadsisar Lake
A14th-century reservoir with temples and carved gateways. Serene in early morning. Pedal boating available. Great photo spot.
Desert National Park
It is one of the largest national parks in India (3,162 sq km). Jeep safaris will make you go through the desert to see rare Great Indian Bustard (endangered), desert fox, chinkaras, and migratory birds. Book safaris in advance. Entry ~[?]200 + jeep hire.
Kuldhara Abandoned Village
A ghost village, left behind one night in 1825 – it is said that a whole community disappeared, because a tyrannical minister was on their heels. Spooky, airy and historically intriguing. 18 km out of town.
Where to Eat
Restaurant Price Range Specialty.
Trio Restaurant (Fort) Dal Baati, Thali of Rajasthan [?] 200-500.
Saffron (Nachana Haveli) Multicuisine, rooftop [?]300-700.
Free Tibet Restaurant Tibetan food Momos [?]150-350.
8 July Restaurant Budget Indian foods [?]100-250.
Rooftop Cafe Monica Cafes + snacks [?]150-350.
Food items that must be eaten: Dal Baati Churma, Ker Sangri, Gatte ki Sabzi, Bajre ki Roti, Rabdi, Kalakand sweets.
Desert Camp Guide
The camps are simple and luxurious. Majority of them are close to Sam or Khuri dunes.
Budget camps: [?]800-1500/per person (dinner, bonfire, breakfast)
On the middle: [?]2500-5000/person (AC tents, attached toilet)
Luxury (The Serai, Suryagarh): [?]10,000-30,000/night.
1-2 weeks before high season (Dec-Jan).
Budget Overview (3 days, 1 individual)
Expense Budget Mid-Range
Stay (3 nights) [?]1,500 [?]6,000
Food (3 days) [?]900 [?]2,500
Desert camp (1 night) [?]1,200 [?]4,000
Transport (local) [?]600 [?]1,500
Entry fees + camel [?]500 [?]1,000
Total ~[?]4,700 ~[?]15,000
Local Transport
Auto-rickshaw: The most suitable to ride in the city ([?]50-150)
Rental scooter/bike: [?]300-500/day – most flexible one.
Shared jeep: This is offered to Sam Dunes at Gandhi Chowk.
Cab hire: [?]1500-2500/day full day sightseeing.
Packing Checklist
Sunscreen SPF 50+, lip balm
Sunglasses and wide-brim hat
Day time light cottons, night warm layer.
Scarf/dupatta (dust and sun protection)
Cash (ATMs sometimes fail)
Torch for fort lanes at night
Comfortable walking shoes
3-Day Itinerary
Day 1 — The Golden City
Morning: Jaisalmer Fort + Jain Temples – Afternoon: Patwon Ki Haveli + Nathmal Ki Haveli – Evening: Gadsisar Lake – Night: Alfresco Dining at roof top restaurant with fort in sight.
Day 2 — Desert Day
Morning: Bada Bagh + Kuldhara Village – Afternoon: Drive to Sam Dunes – Evening: Camel safari in the sunset – Night: Desert camp (bonfire + folk performance + stargazing)
Day 3 — Nature & Market
Morning: Desert national park Jeep safari – Afternoon: Sadar Bazaar shopping (textiles, leather, silver) – Evening: Depart.
Quick Tips
Bid lower through out markets – begin at 40 per cent. asking.
Get a guide to the fort ([?]300-400) – worth the rupee.
Be careful of commission touts at bus/train stations.
Bring a reusable water bottle – be hydrated.
Adhere to the local traditions, dress decently in temples.
In 900 years Desert forts and camel dunes -pediments of the Golden City of Rajasthan.
[?] Best Time
October to March. There is the Desert Festival (camel races, folk music) of February. Eschew May-August – ball-busting 45 deg C.
How to Reach
Best Delhi – train overnight Jaisalmer Express (12-16 hrs, [?]400-1800). In Jodhpur, only 5 hrs by train or bus. Jodhpur (285km) is the nearest airport.
Top 5 Must-Do Things
Jaisalmer Fort – A fort that still exists and was constructed in 1156 AD which is also a UNESCO fort. People still live inside. See the Royal Palace, Jain temples and the ramparts. Go early morning. Entry ~[?]50.
Sam Sand Dunes — 42 km from city. It is inadvisable to miss camel safari during sunset. Horror night in a desert camp bonfire, folk dancers, and the night sky. Budget camps from [?]800/person.
Patwon Ki Haveli Five mansions with stone carvings to fall over. Like the carving of lace in rock. Entry ~[?]100.
Bada Bagh- Royal tombs of the functioning rulers of Jaisalmer. Magical at golden hour (5-6pm). Free entry.
Kuldhara Village Village Left ghost village since 1825. Spooky and weird. 18 km out of city.
[?] Must-Eat
Dal Baati Churma- the must-have Rajasthani dish.
Jaisalmer specialities, Mawa Kachori- sweet stuffed pastry.
Mirchi Bada- spicy chilli fried dumplings sold in street stands.
Masala Chaas- the perfect beverage during the heat in the desert.
[?] Shopping
Mirror-work fabric, silver jewellery, block-print textiles and camel leather bags are on sale in sadar Bazaar and fort lanes. Always bargain – begin at 40 percent quoted price.
Budget (3 Days)
Budget Mid-Range Stay [?]1,500 [?]6,000
Food [?]900 [?]2,500
Desert Camp [?]1,200 [?]4,000
Transport + Entry [?]1,100 [?]2,500
Total ~[?]4,700 ~[?]15,000
3-Day Plan
Day 1: Fort -Patwon ki Haveli -Gadsisar lake during sunset.
Day 2: Bada bagh – Kuldhara – Sam dunes camel safari-overnight camp.
Day 3 Desert National Park jeep safari – Shopping Depart Day.
[?] Quick Tips
Always have cash on hand hence ATMs are not dependable.
have ten or twelve thieves ([?]300) hired–well worth it.
Hire a scooter ([?]400/day) so as to be flexible.
Bring sunscreen, a scarf, and something warm on at night.
Airtel/Jio possess the greatest coverage of the network.
Jaisalmer is pure magic. However, even 3 days will remain with you.